On the sustainability of psyche

2010-03-03

With special regard to training and periods of isolation

“A goal without a plan is just a wish” - Antoine de Saint-Exupery

“Training toward a goal and enjoying that training.” - AdK

“I am infinitely pleased and proud at the appearance of my ‘child’” - Darwin; after seeing the first printed copy of origin (which was over 20 years in the making)

Can you wait 20 years to reap the fruits of your effort? No! We need to take pride and pleasure out of the incremental steps leading toward that ultimate goal. That “ultimate goal” which in all likelihood is not discernible at the beginning of the journey. Then what is there to strive for?

You can only know what drives you, and focus on that. Of course, setting tangible goals is essential to any progressive endeavor but these should be secondary or interchangeable: I want surf the Redbull, now there is no Redbull. But this is only secondary, my primary drive is to surf big waves. And so my general training continues.

We are fortunate to know what drives us, now we must proceed by sharpening the tools. For discussion it is useful to divide this process of improvement into five spheres, not forgetting that all are interdependent:

1. Body - your physical health including diet. Your strengths, and more importantly your weaknesses.

2. Mind - your mental state, do you control your mind in all situations. “Wherever you go, you bring yourself: your emotions, …your shortcomings.” (Sebastian Naslund)

3. Experience - the accumulation of physical and mental skill acquired during training. (Muscle memory and cultivation of mind over matter, etc.)

4. Equipment - Without the correct equipment, success is improbable. Your equipment is merely and extension of yourself allowing your existence under the given conditions.

5. Playing-field / training-field - What aspects of the training-field are representative of the playing-field.

It is often necessary to utilize various training-fields that together adequately mimic the playing-field. An essay is owed to each of these spheres; this script focuses on sustaining positive energy during training - training should be self-motivating.

I’ve been know to use the Hate word when it comes to my views on cycling, but a significant part of my training regime constitutes cycling. How to keep motivated? It is essential to know why you are doing something and what it is that you want out of it (to improve general fitness and strengthen legs, to surf better, to be more confident in big waves = to enjoy my surfing more).

Once this is known and understood incremental goals must be established. This is to, both, monitor progress and gain pleasure from the task. Satisfaction should be taken from achieving ones goals. Without gaining some form of pleasure from a task it soon becomes draining, rather than stimulating.

(I cycle around the block, I cycle around the block in t = time, by the end of the month I want to cycle around the block in t - 20mins, I push myself to cycle around the block 5mins faster each week, I enjoy seeing the improvement, I want to cycle to better my time, I enjoy reaching those targets. But continually my subconscious is telling me I’m going to enjoy my surfing more.)

This should all be fairly self evident. But what happens when you don’t reach an increment and your time around the block is slower, how do you find the energy to push-on?

(I’m swimming up the Orange River. I can hardly see my hands and all I hear is the drum-like action of my arms accompanied by a monotonous breathing rhythm 1, 2, 3, inhale, 1, 2, 3, inhale, 1, 2, 3… I’m struggling to better my time, I just feel heavy, I know that swimming maintains my fitness, I know that when I’m fit I will enjoy my surfing, I tell myself this - repetitively! Nothing! I had a bit of flu, but I’ve recovered? Something is just not right. I try to push, but there is just nothing.)

Mental fatigue is difficult to identify, as the physical manifestations are exceptionally diverse. Listen to your body. Rest IS training.

(I spend time with my family, I quarter my training so I don’t lose my habits, I party a little and eat junk food, I see pics of my friends pushing themselves, I sleep late… And then I’m back!)

Discipline is only needed to form good habits, once you have a positive habitual routine in place it is easy to maintain. Don’t let resting disturb this routine. If your are sick and, say, can’t go to yoga, rather roll-out you matt and lie on it for and hour than watch TV. Keep your hard earned habits. It is also important to remember that after a rest period you cannot immediately begin at the same point. No matter how excited you are. Work your way back to the previous high. Force yourself to cycle around the block in t + 20mins.

(I’m uncertain as to the precise catalyst, but I just feel solid again. I go for a swim, it feels effortless, I see those same pics of my friends and now I can’t contain myself, I know that moment in the photo, I want to be there, I will do everything I can to be prepared, I found my psyche).

It is essential to surround yourself with like minded people. Maybe they don’t surf but they do want push the limits of their discipline in a similar fashion. That collective - your true friends - will keep you psyched. By their example and by their stoke you can maintain yourself through periods of uncertainty. Sometimes just knowing that you are out-there pushing yourself is enough of a spark to push myself a little harder. Also, you will no-doubt be an inspiration to others. And in this way the psyche is self-sustaining and self-perpetuating… Having a conscious awareness of this is paramount.

Initially I wanted to put forward ideas on the difference between training for long- and short-term goals. Although in typing, this script has evolved along is own course. But, it is what it is.

The G-Spot

2010-03-31

There are currently three surf camps at G-Land with space for 160 surfers and there’s a fourth camp on the way. We are the first trip for the season and a total of about 16 surfers are there (including us and all the camps).

After 12 hours on the bus from Bali to Java we finally arrive at JoYo’s Surf Camp with the sun just coming up over the ocean. Breakfast is served and everyone is amping to hit the water. The swell is marginal and the tide is wrong with a slight on-shore. Also, I had two nights of fever and the glands in my groin were badly swollen – should have looked after that little scratch a bit better. So I opted out and went to bed instead.

By the afternoon everyone was finished. And I had just risen in time for the pushing tide. Feeling slightly energized I grabbed my board.

I’ll never forget this session.

I left the camp and walked out onto the exposed reef. (The camp is down at the end of the point and there is a foot path to the top that goes through the jungle). I took a slow walk along the reef. It took me at least half an hour, stopping to check the life in the pools and the odd set rolling down the infamous point. I never saw a single person not even a local fisherman. I had the wave to myself for about two hours. It felt like I’d always imagined – like in the old-school vid’s of Gerry Lopez and the boys. Back when G-Land was still the G-spot of the surfing world, stuck away in the virgin jungle.

Anyway I spoke to the doc later that evening and he said it was bad and would get serious if I didn’t stay out the water for a couple of weeks. He was worried the infection would spread to the bone. I could see the concern in his eyes and also that he knew I was never going to stay out the sea for that long. I managed three days of not surfing at G-Land then a decent swell arrived.

I’m blessed to have had my first time happen the way it did. And I thank God that most men cant find the M-Spot.

The Numbers Catch-Up

2010-04-12

Fok Bra’s I had a serious nearly! Or did I?

So I was talking to some people the other day about pushing oneself and listening to your feelings and listening to that little voice that guides your decisions, being in ‘the zone’. I do listen, and generally very well, hence my surviving many ‘situations’. I can’t understand why I so often ‘get away’ with insignificant damage - all I can say is that I really do believe the world is spinning for me, I always put so much conscious energy into positive outcomes. I tell myself every day I can’t die!

It’s about 08:00 and I’m heading to Canggu for a surf. The Bypass (double lane each way with concrete divider) is real busy, space between trucks, cars and scoot’s is non-existent. You never have much more than 3 meters of clear road ahead and this entire mass is moving along at about 80km/h. I have my board in the rack on the left of the scoot, short shorts, a vest, and crappy helmet. No modesty, I’m good, real good! I’m doing about 95km/h weaving through holes left by a local kid (whom I’m catching up to quickly). Just so alert - taking in tons of info, calculating, predicting, deciding, reacting. This guy dashes across the first lane and finds a tiny gap just before the center line, I’m just on the other side of the line with a car to my right and a scoot to my left. He’s maybe 15meters in front of me when he looks and runs. (I suppose the other scoot would have hit him dead-on if he hadn’t moved).

I swerve to the right and just clip him with my board and left handle-bar. Scoot goes down - I go up and over. I tumble uncontrollably 4 or 5 full rotations maybe more, just stay completely relaxed Michael. It’s a total blur, then I back-flip and take 2 huge bounding steps backward to keep up with the momentum - so relaxed - everything slows down. I see the car that was on my right and now on my left cruise past me, a scoot dodges my scoot which is sliding toward me and another scooter dodges me. I make myself small again to force the roll so i don’t break an ankle flipping and bounding. I come to a stop about 70 meters from impact standing on the white line. I move to the side walk. Nothing is obviously broken! Slip back onto the tarmac to retrieve the scoot. It starts first time. I turn to check if the other guy is ok. He’s sitting on the pavement all the up the road and doesn’t look to be in mortal danger. As I start walking toward him a police man starts toward me - corruption, bribes, extortion. No thanks! Get on the scoot, some dude in the small crowd that’s gathering asks me where I’m staying. I lie, cradle my arm like its broken and ask directions to the hospital. I never went near a hospital, instead straight to the busy part of town…

Some minor roasties on both elbows, knees and right foot (wasn’t wearing shoes). My board is fine. Nothing of any significance. I really feel bad about connecting with that guy and especially not sticking around, but fuck. I was thinking that morning on the ride to Canggu, if the numbers would eventually catch-up with me. And I suppose they did, but at least I learned a lesson; to continue staying positive and listening to my feelings. I’m back on the horse/scoot and still driving like I do, focused and calculating. I understand the risks, now even more so. It doesn’t scare me. I’m more worried that if I stop using my luck, it will dilute away. A second slower or a second faster - it can be argued both ways. I know that for me it’s best to keep pushing forward. Hati-Hati.

Wax Smile

2010-06-09

I often scrape little balls of wax off of my board and press them back-on, toward the nose of the board, in the shape of a smile. It helps to pass the time between sets, but more importantly it’s my conscious effort to exercise positive thinking. Seeing those little wax smiles make me happy and reminds me how powerful a smile can be. Those days when it’s just not happening for me; when my swell magnet is switched-off, when I’m falling for no reason. I see the smiles and tell myself to smile. It doesn’t matter that I fall – I can actually obtain pleasure by being aware of my existence in such beautiful environments – sitting in the ocean feeling the natural flow of energy and allowing my mind to calm. Hippie shit.

I often think of Andrew Marr when I’m in the water at crowded/competitive breaks. He always has a smile and gives a hoot for anyone going for a good wave. When he’s around the entire atmosphere changes and everyone has more fun! I’ve seen the same thing when Arjan gets in the water. It’s amazing to see the effect we can have on our environment and the people within.

I’ve been patient, very patient waiting for the bomb set. Some chop blatantly drops-in on me. I pull-into the barrel behind him. There is spray everywhere and I can’t see anything just trusting my line. He bails. I come off the bottom and hit the lip before hopping over the shoulder and start paddling back up the point. As I pass, he makes a half-ass apology. I say “no-worries man, there’s plenty of space for everybody”. Not to sound cocky but so that everyone else can feel the good vibes. Seriously, I’m in Bali surfing my heart out and I just got barrelled. There is nothing to complain about.

Keep the Peace

Stoke the Gees

April

2010-06-16

Today was kak, woke-up and couldn’t shake that little niggle in the recesses of my consciousness. But I could hear the waves breaking while lying in bed waiting for the sun to do its thing. At first light I headed down to the look-out point for visual confirmation, I stubbed my toe rather badly. Michael, can’t you just concentrate? Went back to the flat and doctored the toe. It took me three tries to leave base, kept forgetting little crap. Despite a few other minor niggles, including a no petrol in the scoot situation, I finally made it to the beach. The waves were solid, good barrels but not much wall for turning. I patiently make my way to the top of the pack and drop into a bomb. Pull-in and get shut down! Every wave I catch closing-out or falling flat. Ok, go home and take it easy, the body is definitely talking.

It’s supposed to be smaller than yesterday (?) but I head back to the same spot. There are only 20 people in the water (1/3 of yesterday) and it’s slightly smaller with no wind. I watch the line-up from the warung and eat a mie goring while sipping on a Bali kopi. Gathering myself and commanding my consciousness – I hit the water and hit it hard! The waves come to me. Even one of the hard-ass locals (with whom I’ve had ‘encounters’) seems friendly and even calls me into a couple of bombs. I’m number 3 away from the peak and beaut’ starts to build on the outer reef. Number 1 is too deep and number 2 paddles. Then for no reason hesitates. I swing round take a half stroke and stand-up in the barrel. Maybe 6 seconds later I come out clean and bust an air. It was one of many great waves that day.

Nothing really changed since yesterday, well except for me. Sometimes I’m just too fatigued to overcome that little niggle. Rest is training!

Arriving home

2010-06-23

I had the longest shower ever and waited until the water got cold. Then I just passed the fuck out! Got up early and went for breakfast on a nearby wine farm with Arjan and my bro (Marc). It was raining and cold. Fuck it’s good to be cold. We had a proper coffee and the hugest breakfast in front of the fire. The warm glow and familiar crackling along with being close to my family… the normal lethargic response was absent. Instead we are full of gees (energy, psyche and spirit), planning the next angle of attack (climb, surf, paddle… etc). Winter in the Cape, fucking stoked!

The next day we (Marc and I) head down the coast to visit our ballies (parents), via a canoe race my bro wanted to do. We arrived early. The river is glass with low lying mist blanketing the surrounding vineyards and not too far away the familiar Langeberg Mountains silhouetted by the pink and orange aura of the rising sun. Slowly the mist adopts the colour of the sky and my bro glides through the water disturbing the morning glass on his warm-up run. Twenty six kilometres downstream I’m sitting with Pierre, the winner, on the grassy bank overlooking the finish line. Suddenly Pierre jumps up; “is that marc – already”! It’s my bro’s fourth race and the longest he’s ever done. Finishing a couple of minutes behind the leaders, he needs another six months of hard training and he’ll be very competitive. So we’ve been training! Up at 5am running, core, stretching, slackline, surfing, paddling, climbing… completely maxing out. I just want to do everything as much as I can, every day. Sometimes I have too much energy in me and I just need to scream to let it out. Aaaaaarg!

Days in the office

2010-08-11