Doing
On the last day of the trip I managed to do the first ascent of Die boogskutter (The archer). We first tried it about 10 years ago when we started climbing in the area. At that time we had not yet optimised the approach so it was more than an hour’s walk. Now that we know a better way it has become much more approachable and has seen probably four sessions in total. It’s a proud and powerful line on perfect sandstone.
Die boogskutter, 7c+ - about 13 moves in total. It starts with a series of compression undercling moves which traverse into steep overhanging arete climbing on positive holds. The topout sequence is the crux: you move into a full extension lockoff from a strange position all the way up to a terrible 1/4 digit crimp; after which you make a big move with the right hand to an OK hold. And the topout is not a giveaway either.
Going back in time a bit, on the first day of the trip I managed to do the FA of another long-term project of mine: The unmoved mover. I’ve been trying this on and off for the last couple of years and it was cool to finally stick the crux - I have no idea how many tries it took before I could stick it but it felt like a revelation to finally do. The boulder offers an interesting mixture of explosive climbing and subtlety: heel-toe cams on the edge, marginal slopers on pitch black rock.
The unmoved mover, 7c+ - 6 moves in total with an extremely low percentage crux move: a dyno from a sloper and a crimp on a strangely overhanging arete to a flat one-digit hold.
If the unmoved mover lacked the element of height then Beyond good and evil more than made up for it. You can’t ask for more than this: amazing setting, bullet sandstone, tricky and powerful climbing with a serious topout.
Beyond good and evil, 7c - this line has the full experience: a difficult sit-start leading into technical arete climbing involving crimping, heel-hooking and compression followed by a reachy but positive toupout 7m above the ground. This FA meant a lot to me. What a privilege to be able to experience something like this.
A couple of days later, and just around the corner of Beyond good and evil, Jurie sent The power of madness.
The power of madness, 7c - a complete line with consistently subtle and core-intensive climbing from start to finish. This is an unforgiving climb that throws you off the moment you make a mistake. And the aesthetics of the line are near perfect: colours, rock quality, setting - it’s all there.
After a good fight with the problem Jeanrich did the FA of Die sondvloed. This is one of those lines we first thought would be really difficult and maybe out of reach but a while ago Jeanrich and Jurie started trying it anyway. To our surprise all the moves went pretty fast which eventually led to the send. The best strategy in the long term is to try the lines that inspire you, no matter what the apparent difficulty.
Die sondvloed, 7c - 10 powerful moves on compact and overhanging sandstone. This line is difficult to photograph because you climb out from behind a boulder into the topout sequence. Be that as it may it has a great mixture of footwork and body power climbing. And beautiful colours too.
During the last few months Jurie, Jeanrich and Unio had been actively searching for new projects to climb (as they always do) and happened upon the boulder that would later host the line called Morphic resonance - a proud line with intense climbing on a ~25 degree overhanging face. Doing this FA was another amazing moment for me. I look forward to seeing it again when the vegatation has started its recovery after the fire.
Morphic resonance, 7c+ - this is a complete line. Sit start, tall, with consistent climbing all the way. It starts with some tricky footwork which quickly escalates into heavy crimping. Then you have to move to the right and up which involves bumping your right hand down onto a shitty open hand press hold before doing a dynamic move to an open handed catch. Then you have to manage your wide arm position and climb into the topout sequence which has more big moves on crimps.
Another line that offers an amazing variety is Die kompoun (the meaning and the origin of the term is unfortunately beyond the scope of this piece of writing). Right at the end of a day’s climbing Jeanrich pulled off a first ascent of this unlikely boulder. The more difficult exit to the right will have to wait until the next session.
Die kompoun, 7b+ - starting with compression moves in a steep roof, climbing into strange open-handed huecos and topping out with a technical slab. Die kompoun!
On some of the days Karlien joined us. She flashed the beautiful Oil painting arete with ease.
Oil painting arete, 6b - a beautiful arete on some of the most compact sandstone the Western Cape has to offer. Amazing patterns in the rock.
I feel like I’m running out of words to describe all the incredible boulders we did, so I’ll just be blunt for a change: here’s a picture of Jurie climbing Die mensvretergees (the cannibal spirit) - another awesome line.
Die mensvretergees, 7b - delicate and committing face climbing on small crimps. Perfect stone and setting.
Of course there was also time to indulge in less difficult first ascents too. A memorable one for me was Die handlanger (the helper).
Die handlanger, 7a+ - setting up for the sideways slab dyno - only one foot stays on for the dyno. Weird movement but incredibly satisfying. And such a perfect line - you do a jump start to the only hold on the gently on-hanging face and dyno to the slanted arete from there. Crazy.
One of my all-time favourites is the beautiful Die slang se resiprook (the snake’s reciprocal).
Die slang se resiprook, 6b+ - although not difficult it is perfect in every way. I can’t wait to do it again.
Having fun on the Ietermagog.
Die ietermagog, 7a - sloping arete weirdness.
Baba Yaumi’s ad in the Daily Sun.